Restoring a 1955–1983 CJ-5: Essential Tips

The most popular Civilian Jeep ever made

The CJ-5’s long production run means there are significant differences between early (1955–1971) and late (1972–1983) examples. Early models have a different body and use the Hurricane four or Dauntless V6. Later AMC-era CJ-5s received updated sheetmetal, different dash, and AMC engines (258 six or 304 V8).

Key restoration points:

• Frame inspection — look for cracks around spring mounts and body mounts.
• Body panels: early vs late fenders, hoods, and grilles are not interchangeable.
• Electrical: most early CJs are 6-volt; many have been converted to 12-volt.
• Drivetrain: Dana 18 transfer case and Dana 25/44 or 30/44 axles are common.

Quality reproduction panels and a solid frame are the foundation of any successful CJ-5 restoration.

Spotter’s Guide: Flat-Fender CJs

CJ-2A, CJ-3A, and CJ-3B

Flat-fender Willys are the purest expression of the original Jeep design. Here’s how to tell them apart quickly:

• CJ-2A (1945–49): Two-piece windshield with square upper corners. Often has top-bow storage brackets on the driver’s side.
• CJ-3A (1949–53): One-piece windshield with rounded upper corners. Driver’s seat moved rearward for more legroom. No bow brackets.
• CJ-3B (1953–68): Taller hood and grille to clear the Hurricane engine. The “high hood” is the most obvious external difference.

All share the 80-inch wheelbase and the classic 7-slot grille.

Choosing the Right Reproduction Parts

What separates good panels from bad ones

Not all reproduction sheetmetal is equal. When buying body parts for a Willys CJ, look for:

• Correct gauge steel and proper stamping details
• Accurate mounting holes and flange shapes
• Manufacturer reputation and fitment guarantees
• Whether the part is for early or late CJ-5 (they differ significantly)

Quality parts reduce bodywork time and produce a better finished vehicle. Always verify fitment for your specific year and model before ordering.